Fires of Olympos, photo by Dave Lonsdale, via Flickr
Observing the eternal flames bursting through the mountainsides 30 miles south of today’s Antalya, the ancients required a fitting story to account for such an astonishing natural phenomenon. The answer bore the legend of the Chimera: an indestructible fire-breathing monster with a lion’s head, a goat’s body and a serpent’s tail. According to the Greek myth, Bellerophon slayed the beast atop Pegasus with a lead-tipped lance. However, the fires remained burning in its lair, now called Mt. Chimera in Olympos National Park.
What really keeps the fires burning, however, is the vast field of methane and other gas below the rock slope, thought to be much stronger in ancient times. Emissions change seasonally as output is affected by factors above and below, from the build up of groundwater to changes in barometric pressure. It is possible to extinguish a flame by covering it, but it merely pops up nearby in a new flame. All together, the vents represent the largest amount of abiogenic methane on land in the world.
For most visitors, the flames look best at night, indeed bright enough to serve as a natural lighthouse for sailors at sea. To facilitate, many nearby pensions, camps, B&Bs and hotels run vans up to the entrance, especially near sundown, the most popular time. Reaching the site, however, is somewhat challenging, especially at night. After paying the modest entry fee, visitors must ascend a moderately strenuous two-mile rocky stairway that twists, turns, narrows, widens and poses more than a few opportunities for twisted ankles if not paying attention or wearing quality footwear. Also bring a flashlight.
At the top, the chalky stone field, from which the fires burst, spreads out between clusters of pine trees and other greenery. Often, especially in peak season, each flame is surrounded by informal campers in for the long haul, with drinks, tents and chairs; as the park is open 24 hours, there’s no prohibition about staying the night, drinks included. Roasting wieners or marshmallows in the flames is common and one of the more popular tourist shots. Whatever supplies you need, just make sure to get them prior, as there’s no chance once on the trail.
Although the most popular spot, the chimaera is just one highlight of the wider Olympos National Park, in which it sits. Stuffed with sea sports, picnic, camping, trekking, paragliding and bird watching activities, the park easily keeps its guests busy and happy, including would-be archeologists at a ruined temple to Hephaestus, the Greek god of fire. As the area is exceptionally popular for backpackers, there are many camp communities nearby, most notably the treehouse lodges. Otherwise, it’s an easy day trip from Antalya and an easy addition to 4-Day Small-Group Turkey Tour from Antalya.
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